CENTRE FOR FOOD TECHNOLOGY AND
RESEARCH (CEFTER)
AKPERAN ORSHI COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE,
YANDEV
CONSTRUCTION
OF AQUARIUM TANK
BY
1Ukoro F. O.,
1Department
of Basic Sciences, Akperan Orshi College of Agriculture, Yandev, Gboko
CHAPTER ONE
1.0 Introduction to Aquarium
An
aquarium is a vivarium of
any size having at least one transparent side in which water-dwelling plants or
animals are kept and displayed. Fish keepers use
aquaria to keep fish, invertebrates,
amphibians, aquatic reptiles such as turtles, and aquatic plants. The
term, coined by English naturalist Gosse, combines the Latin root aqua, meaning water, with
the suffix -arium, meaning "a place for relating to". The
aquarium principle was fully developed (Hora, 1992).
In
2005 Thomas H. explained that plants added to water in a container would give
off enough oxygen to support animals, so long as their numbers do not grow too
large.
An
aquarist owns fish or maintains an aquarium, typically constructed of glass or
high-strength acrylic. Cuboid
aquaria are also known as fish tanks
or simply tanks, while bowl-shaped aquaria are also known as fish bowls. Size can range from a
small glass bowl to immense public aquaria (Tang, 1999).
1.1 STATEMENT OF THE
PROBLEM
The major
concern of Aquarium tank in the LABORATORY today is to harvest rare fish in an
artificial way whereas in the absence of natural dwelling of species. Specialized
equipment maintains in an appropriate water quality and other characteristics
suitable for the aquarium’s life are used to raise fry which develop readily
for biological practical as a specimen in the Laboratory. Usually aquarium care takers face several problems
in maintenance the vitality and health of fishes along with the
presentation of the aquarium.
1.2 THE
AIMS OF THE STUDY
i. To construct
Aquarium Tank for Fry/Fingerlings dwelling for Biology Laboratory practical usage.
ii. To
determine the importance of this tank in Biology unit of Basic Sciences Department of the laboratory.
1.3 SIGNIFICANCE OF THE
STUDY
The essence
of this project work is to determine the significance of artificially made
(constructed) aquarium tank which support wide life for the purpose of raising
fry/fingerling in the laboratory to aid practical knowledge as prerequisite for
NBTE standard.
1.4 SCOPE AND LIMITATION
This project
work is restricted only to an open air aquarium tank mounted in Basic Sciences
Department; Sciences Laboratory Technology due to financial constrains.
1.5 DEFINITION
OF TERMS
FRY: A baby fish
FINGERLINGS: A young fish, especially
one less than a year old and about the size of a human finger.
TANK: is an artificially constructed dwelling of an aquatic wide life.
POND: is an artificially constructed site for keeping fishes.
VIVARIUM: an
enclosure, container, or structure adapted or prepared for keeping animals
under semi-natural conditions for observation or study or as pets; an aquarium
or terrarium.
HEALTH: This is the condition of the mind and body.
CHAPTER TWO
2.0 LITERATURE REVIEW
2.1 Antiquity of Aquarium Tank
In
the Roman Empire, the
first fish to be brought indoors was the sea barbel,
which was kept under guest beds in small tanks made of marble. Introduction of
glass panes around the year 50 AD allowed Romans to replace one wall of marble
tanks, improving their view of the fish. In 1369, the Hongwu Emperor of
China established a porcelain
company that produced large porcelain tubs for maintaining goldfish; over
time, people produced tubs that approached the shape of modern fish bowls.
Leonhard Baldner, who wrote Vogel-, Fisch- und Tierbuch (Bird, Fish, and
Animal Book) in 1666, maintained weather loaches and newts (Pillay, 1999).
In
1832, Jeanne
Villepreux-Power,
a pioneering French marine biologist, became the first person to create aquaria
for experimenting with aquatic organisms. In 1836, soon after his invention of
the Wardian case, Dr. Nathaniel Bagshaw
Ward
proposed to use his tanks for tropical animals. In 1841 he did so, though only
with aquatic plants and toy fish. However, he soon housed real animals. In
1838, Félix Dujardin noted
owning a saltwater aquarium,
though he did not use the term. In 1846, Anne Thynne
maintained stony corals and seaweed for
almost three years, and was credited as the creator of the first balanced
marine aquarium in London. English chemist Robert Warington experimented
with a 13-gallon container, which contained goldfish, eelgrass, and snails, creating one of the first stable aquaria.
The aquarium principle was fully developed by Warington, explaining that plants
added to water in a container would give off enough oxygen to support animals,
so long as their numbers do not grow too large (Szabványügyi, 2000).
The
keeping of fish in an aquarium became a popular hobby and spread quickly. In
the United Kingdom, it became popular after ornate aquaria in cast-iron frames
were featured at the Great Exhibition of
1851. In 1853, the aquarium craze was launched in England by Philip Henry Gosse who
created and stocked the first public aquarium in the London Zoo which
came to be known as the Fish House. Gosse coined the word "aquarium",
opting for this term (instead of "aquatic vivarium" or
"aqua-vivarium"). Germans soon rivaled the British in their interest.
In 1854, an anonymous author had two articles published about the saltwater
aquaria of the United Kingdom: Die Gartenlaube (The Garden House)
entitled Der Ocean auf dem Tische (The Ocean on the Table). However, in
1856, Der See im Glase (The Lake in a Glass) was published, discussing
freshwater aquaria, which were much easier to maintain in landlocked areas. In
1862 William Alford Lloyd, then
bankrupt because of the craze in England being over, moved to Grindel Dammthor,
Hamburg, to supervise the installation of the circulating system and tanks at
the Hamburg Aquarium.
During the 1870s, some of the first aquarist societies were
appearing in Germany. The United States soon followed. Published in 1858, Henry
D. Butler's The Family Aquarium was one of the first books written in
the United States solely about the aquarium. According to the July issue of The
North American Review of the same year, William Stimson may have owned some
of the first functional aquaria, and had as many as seven or eight. The first
aquarist society in the United States was founded in New York City in
1893, followed by others. The New York Aquarium Journal, first published
in October 1876, is considered to be the world's first aquarium magazine (Wikihow 2012).
2.1.2 Water quality
Quality of
water is one of the most significant factors to be considered in aquarium
selection. It should be investigated by taking a number of water samples from
the proposed water source for laboratory analyses of physical, chemical,
biological and micro-biological properties, including health hazards. Water
test procedures should be in accordance with the relevant Standard
Classification in the country on water quality. From a production point of
view, emphasis should be placed on the following:
(i) physical properties - temperature,
colour, odour, turbidity, transparency, suspended solids.
(ii) chemical properties - pH, dissolved
oxygen, biochemical oxygen demand, free carbon dioxide, alkalinity, salinity,
dissolved solids, ammonia, all as regards both useful and toxic qualifies; also
whether pollutants of agricultural or industrial origin are present, and if so,
to what extent.
(iii) Biological properties - quality and
density of plankton. (iv) micro-biological properties - species and quantity of
parasites.
The solute
content of water is perhaps the most important aspect of water conditions, as total dissolved
solids and
other constituents dramatically impact basic water chemistry, and therefore how
organisms interact with their environment. Salt content, or salinity, is
the most basic measure of water conditions. An aquarium may have freshwater
(salinity below 500 parts per million), simulating a lake or river
environment; brackish water (a
salt level of 500 to 30,000 PPM), simulating environments lying between
fresh and salt, such as estuaries; and
salt water or seawater (a
salt level of 30,000 to 40,000 PPM), simulating an ocean environment.
Rarely, higher salt concentrations are maintained in specialized tanks for
raising brine organisms (Huet, et
al., 2003).
Saltwater
is typically alkaline, while the pH (alkalinity or acidicity) of
fresh water varies more. Hardness measures overall dissolved mineral content; hard or soft water may
be preferred. Hard water is usually alkaline, while soft water is usually
neutral to acidic. Dissolved organic
content and
dissolved gases content are also important factors.
Home
aquarists typically use tap water supplied through their local water supply network to
fill their tanks. Straight tap water cannot be used in localities that pipe
chlorinated water. In the past, it was possible to "condition" the
water by simply letting the water stand for a day or two, which allows the chlorine time
to dissipate. However, chloramine is
now used more often and does not leave the water as readily. Additives
formulated to remove chlorine or chloramine are often all that is needed to
make the water ready for aquarium use. Brackish or saltwater aquaria require
the addition of a commercially available mixture of salts and
other minerals. This aquarium features a heated tank and a glass-enclosed top
for warmth during winter (Pillay, 1997).
Some
aquarists modify water's alkalinity, hardness, or dissolved content of organics
and gases, before adding it to their aquaria. This can be accomplished by
additives, such as sodium bicarbonate, to raise pH. Some aquarists filter or
purify their water through deionization or reverse osmosis prior
to using it. In contrast, public aquaria with large water needs often locate
themselves near a natural water source (such as a river, lake, or ocean) to
reduce the level of treatment. Some hobbyists use an algae scrubber to
filter the water naturally.
Water temperature
determines the two most basic aquarium classifications: tropical
versus cold water. Most
fish and plant species tolerate only a limited temperature range; tropical
aquaria, with an average temperature of about 25 °C (77 °F), are much
more common. Cold water aquaria are for fish that are better suited to a cooler
environment. More important than the range is consistency; most organisms are
not accustomed to sudden changes in temperatures, which can cause shock and
lead to disease.[56] Water
temperature can be regulated with a thermostat and
heater (or cooler) (Tang, 1998).
Water
movement can also be important in simulating a natural ecosystem. Aquarists may
prefer anything from still water up to swift currents,
depending on the aquarium's inhabitants. Water movement can be controlled via
aeration from air pumps, powerheads, and careful design of internal water flow
(such as location of filtration system points of inflow and outflow) (Crosswell, Tom 2009).
2.1.4 Hydrological characteristics
The most
important data needed for aquarium selection can be gathered from such sources
as Irrigation Departments or other Water Authorities. The following are needed:
Data for
discharge, yield, floods and water elevations of existing water sources
(rivers, irrigation channels, reservoirs, springs, etc.).
2.1.3 Economic and social factors
The most
important economic and social factors are as follows:
-
development plans for the aquarium project
- ownership,
availability of the size of the tank
- proximity
to all-weather road connections
- availability
of equipment, services and supplies needed for running the project
-
availability of construction materials
- costs of
equipment, materials, feeds, etc. needed for running the project
-
availability of suitable transport facilities
- availability
of skilled and semi-skilled labourers (Woynárovich
et atl., 1999).
2.1.4 Materials for the construction
Most
aquaria consist of glass panes
bonded together by 100% silicone
sealant, with plastic frames attached to the upper and lower edges for
decoration. The glass aquarium is standard for sizes up to about 1,000 litres
(260 US gal; 220 imp gal). However, glass as a material is
brittle and has very little give before fracturing, though generally the
sealant fails first. Aquaria are made in a variety of shapes, such as cuboid, hexagonal,
angled to fit in a corner (L-shaped), and bow-front (the front side curves
outwards). Fish bowls are generally either made of plastic or glass, and are
either spherical or some other round configuration in shape.
The
very first modern aquarium made of glass was developed in the 19th century by
Robert Warrington. During the Victorian age,
glass aquariums commonly had slate or steel bottoms, which allowed them to be
heated underneath by an open-flame heat source. These aquariums had the glass
panels attached with metal frames and sealed with putty. Metal-framed aquariums
were still available until the mid-1960s, when the modern, silicone-sealed
style replaced them. Acrylic
aquariums first became available to the public in the 1970s. Laminated glass is
sometimes used, which combines the advantages of both glass and acrylic.
Glass
aquaria have been a popular choice for many home and hobbyist aquarists for
many years. Once silicone sealant became strong enough to ensure a long-term
water-tight seal, it eliminated the need for a structural frame. In addition to
lower cost, glass aquaria are more scratch resistant than acrylic. Although the
price is one of the main considerations for aquarists when deciding which of
these two types of aquaria to purchase, for very large tanks, the price
difference tends to disappear.
Acrylic
aquaria are now the primary competitor with glass. Prior to the invention of UV stabilization,
early acrylic aquaria discolored over time with exposure to light; this is no
longer the case. Acrylic is generally stronger than glass, weighs less, and
provides a certain amount of temperature insulation. In colder climates or
environments, it is easier to achieve and maintain a tropical temperature and
requires less capacity from an aquarium heater. Acrylic-soluble cements are
used to directly fuse acrylic together. Acrylic allows for the formation of
unusual shapes, such as the hexagonal tank. Compared to glass, acrylics are easier to
scratch; but unlike glass, it is possible to polish out scratches in acrylic.
Large
aquaria might instead use stronger materials such as fiberglass-reinforced
plastics.
However, this material is not transparent. Reinforced concrete is
used for aquaria where weight and space are not factors. Concrete must be
coated with a waterproof layer to prevent the water from breaking down the
concrete, as well as preventing contamination of the water by the concrete (Salvatori, 2007).
2.1.6 Styles
adopted in building Aquarium tank
Objects
used for aquariums include: coffee tables, sinks, gumball machines and even
toilets. Another such example is the MacQuarium, an
aquarium made from the shell of an Apple Macintosh computer. In
recent years, elaborate custom-designed home aquariums costing hundreds of
thousands of dollars have become status symbols—according to The New York
Times, "among people of means, a dazzling aquarium is one of the last
surefire ways to impress their peers."
2.1.7 Aquarium
size and volume
An
aquarium can range from a small glass bowl containing less than 1 litre of
water to immense public aquaria that house entire ecosystems such as kelp forests.
Relatively large home aquaria resist rapid fluctuations of temperature and pH,
allowing for greater system stability. Beginner aquarists are advised to
consider larger tanks to begin with, as controlling water parameters in smaller
tanks can prove difficult.
Unfiltered
bowl-shaped aquaria are now widely regarded as unsuitable for most fish.
Advanced alternatives are now available. In order to keep water conditions at
suitable levels, aquariums should contain at least two forms of filtration:
biological and mechanical. Chemical filtration should also be considered under
some circumstances for optimum water quality. Chemical filtration is frequently
achieved via activated carbon, to
filter medications, tannins,
and/or other known impurities from the water.
Reef
aquaria under 100 litres, have a special place in the aquarium hobby; these
aquaria, termed nano reefs (when
used in reefkeeping), have a small water volume, under 40 litres .
Practical
limitations, most notably the weight of
water (1 kilogram per litre) and internal water pressure
(requiring thick glass siding) of a large aquarium, restrict most home aquaria
to a maximum of around 1 cubic metre in volume (1000 L, weighing 1,000 kg or
2,200 lb). Some aquarists, however, have constructed aquaria of many thousands
of litres.
Public aquariums
designed for exhibition of large species or environments can be dramatically
larger than any home aquarium. The Georgia Aquarium, for
example, features an individual aquarium of 6,300,000 US gallons (24,000 m3).
2.1.8 Aquarium Components
Filtration system
in a typical aquarium: (1) intake, (2) mechanical filtration, (3) chemical
filtration, (4) biological filtration medium, (5) outflow to tank
The
typical hobbyist aquarium includes a filtration system, an artificial lighting
system, and a heater or chiller depending on the aquarium's inhabitants. Many
aquaria incorporate a hood, containing the lights, to decrease evaporation and
prevent fish from leaving the aquarium (and anything else from entering the
aquarium).
Combined
biological and mechanical aquarium filtration systems are
common. These either convert ammonia to nitrate (removing nitrogen at the
expense of aquatic plants), or to sometimes remove phosphate.
Filter media can house microbes that
mediate nitrification.
Filtration systems are sometimes the most complex component of home aquaria.
Aquarium heaters
combine a heating element with a thermostat,
allowing the aquarist to regulate water temperature at a level above that of
the surrounding air, whereas coolers and chillers (refrigeration devices) are
for use anywhere, such as cold water aquaria, where the ambient room
temperature is above the desired tank temperature. Thermometers used
include glass alcohol thermometers, adhesive external plastic strip
thermometers,
and battery-powered LCD thermometers. In addition, some aquarists use air pumps
attached to airstones or
water pumps to increase water circulation and supply adequate gas exchange at
the water surface. Wave-making devices have also been constructed to provide
wave action.
An
aquarium's physical characteristics form another aspect of aquarium design.
Size, lighting conditions, density of floating and rooted plants, placement of bog-wood,
creation of caves or overhangs, type of substrate, and
other factors (including an aquarium's positioning within a room) can all
affect the behavior and survival of tank inhabitants.
An
aquarium can be placed on an aquarium stand. Because of the weight of the
aquarium, a stand must be strong as well as level. A tank that is not level may
distort, leak, or crack. These are often built with cabinets to allow storage,
available in many styles to match room decor. Simple metal tank stands are also
available. Most aquaria should be placed on polystyrene to
cushion any irregularities on the underlying surface or the bottom of the tank
itself that may cause cracks. However, some tanks have an under frame making
this unnecessary (Chermayeff, 2000).
2.1.9 Aquarium
maintenance
Large
volumes of water enable more stability in a tank by diluting effects from death
or contamination events that push an aquarium away from equilibrium. The bigger
the tank, the easier such a systemic shock is to
absorb, because the effects of that event are diluted. For example, the death
of the only fish in a 11-litre, tank causes dramatic changes in the system,
while the death of that same fish in a 400-litre tank with many other fish in
it represents only a minor change. For this reason, hobbyists often favor
larger tanks, as they require less attention.
Several
nutrient cycles are
important in the aquarium. Dissolved oxygen enters the system at the surface
water-air interface. Similarly, carbon dioxide escapes the system into the air.
The phosphate cycle is an important, although often overlooked, nutrient cycle.
Sulfur, iron, and micronutrients also cycle through the system, entering as
food and exiting as waste. Appropriate handling of the nitrogen cycle,
along with supplying an adequately balanced food supply and considered
biological loading, is enough to keep these other nutrient cycles in
approximate equilibrium.
An
aquarium must be maintained regularly to ensure that the fish are kept healthy.
Daily maintenance consists of checking the fish for signs of stress and disease. Also, aquarists must make sure that the water
has a good quality and it is not cloudy or foamy and the temperature of
the water is appropriate for the particular species of fish that live in the
aquarium.
Typical
weekly maintenance includes changing around 10-20% of the water while cleaning
the gravel, or
other substrate if the aquarium has one. A good habit is to remove the water
being replaced by "vacuuming" the gravel with suitable implements, as
this will eliminate uneaten foods and other residues that settle on the substrate. In
many areas tap water is
not considered to be safe for fish to live in because it contains chemicals
that harm the fish. Tap water from those areas must be treated with a suitable
water conditioner, such as a product which removes chlorine and chloramine and
neutralises any heavy metals present. The water conditions must be checked both
in the tank and in the replacement water, to make sure they are suitable for
the species of fish kept (Hora et al., 2000)
2.2 Nitrogen
cycle
Of
primary concern to the aquarist is management of the waste produced by an aquarium's inhabitants.
Fish, invertebrates, fungi, and
some bacteria excrete nitrogen waste
in the form of ammonia
(which converts to ammonium, in
acidic water) and must then either pass through the nitrogen cycle or be
removed by passing through zeolite.
Ammonia is also produced through the decomposition of
plant and animal matter, including fecal matter and other detritus.
Nitrogen waste products become toxic to fish and other aquarium inhabitants at
high concentrations. In the wild, the vast amount of water surrounding the fish
dilutes ammonia and other waste materials. When fish are put into an aquarium,
waste can quickly reach toxic concentrations in the enclosed environment unless
the tank is cycled to remove waste (Kingson,
2010).
2.2.0 The process
A
well-balanced tank contains organisms that are able to metabolize the
waste products of other aquarium residents. This process is known in the
aquarium hobby as the nitrogen cycle. Bacteria known
as nitrifiers
(genus Nitrosomonas)
metabolize nitrogen waste. Nitrifying bacteria capture ammonia from the water
and metabolize it to produce nitrite.
Nitrite is toxic to fish in high concentrations. Another type of bacteria
(genus Nitrospira)
converts nitrite into nitrate, a
less toxic substance. (Nitrobacter
bacteria were previously believed to fill this role. While biologically they
could theoretically fill the same niche as Nitrospira, it has recently
been found that Nitrobacter are not present in detectable levels in
established aquaria, while Nitrospira are plentiful.) However,
commercial products sold as kits to "jump start" the nitrogen cycle
often still contain Nitrobacter.
In
addition to bacteria, aquatic plants also eliminate nitrogen waste by
metabolizing ammonia and nitrate. When plants metabolize nitrogen compounds,
they remove nitrogen from the water by using it to build biomass that
decays more slowly than ammonia-driven plankton
already dissolved in the water (Pillay, et al., 2009).
2.2.1 Biological load
The
biological load, or bioload, is a measure of the burden placed on the aquarium
ecosystem by its inhabitants. High biological loading presents a more
complicated tank ecology, which in turn means that equilibrium is easier to
upset. Several fundamental constraints on biological loading depend on aquarium
size. The water's surface area
limits oxygen
intake. The bacteria population depends on the physical space they have
available to colonize. Physically, only a limited size and number of plants and
animals can fit into an aquarium while still providing room for movement.
Biologically, biological loading refers to the rate of biological decay in
proportion to tank volume. Adding plants to an aquarium will sometimes help
greatly with taking up fish waste as plant nutrients. Although an aquarium can
be overloaded with fish, an excess of plants is unlikely to cause harm.
Decaying plant material, such as decaying plant leaves, can add these nutrients
back into the aquarium if not promptly removed. The bioload is processed by the
aquarium's biofilter
filtration system (Szabványügyi, et al., 2006).
2.2.2 Calculating capacity
Limiting factors
include the oxygen availability and filtration processing. Aquarists have rules of thumb to estimate the
number of fish that can be kept in an aquarium. The examples below are for
small freshwater fish; larger freshwater fishes and most marine fishes need
much more generous allowances.
- 3 cm of adult fish length per 4 litres of water (i.e., a 6 cm-long fish would need about 8 litres of water).[60]
- 1 cm of adult fish length per 30 square centimetres of surface area.
- 1 inch of adult fish length per US gallon of water.
- 1 inch of adult fish length per 12 square inches of surface area.
Experienced
aquarists warn against applying these rules too strictly because they do not
consider other important issues such as growth rate, activity level, social
behaviour, filtration capacity, total biomass of plant life, and so on.[62] It is
better to apply the overall mass and size of a fish per gallon of water, than
simply the length. This is because fish of different sizes produce quite
differing amounts of waste. Establishing maximum capacity is often a matter of
slowly adding fish and monitoring water quality over time, following a trial and error approach
(Elekes, et
al.,2000).
2.2.3 Other factors affecting capacity
One
variable is differences between fish. Smaller fish consume more oxygen per gram
of body weight than larger fish. Labyrinth fish can
breathe atmospheric oxygen and do not need as much surface area (however, some
of these fish are territorial, and do not appreciate crowding). Barbs also
require more surface area than tetras of comparable size.
Oxygen
exchange at the surface is an important constraint, and thus the surface area
of the aquarium matters. Some aquarists claim that a deeper aquarium holds no
more fish than a shallower aquarium with the same surface area. The capacity
can be improved by surface movement and water circulation such as through
aeration, which not only improves oxygen exchange, but also waste decomposition
rates.
Waste density
is another variable. Decomposition in solution consumes oxygen. Oxygen
dissolves less readily in warmer water; this is a double-edged sword since
warmer temperatures make fish more active, so they consume more oxygen.
In
addition to bioload/chemical considerations, aquarists also consider the mutual
compatibility of the fish. For instance, predatory fish are usually not kept
with small, passive species, and territorial fish are often unsuitable tank mates
for shoaling species. Furthermore, fish tend to fare better if given tanks
conducive to their size. That is, large fish need large tanks and small fish
can do well in smaller tanks. Lastly, the tank can become overcrowded without
being overstocked. In other words, the aquarium can be suitable with regard to
filtration capacity, oxygen load, and water, yet still be so crowded that the
inhabitants are uncomfortable (Ihnatko,
1992).
For
planted freshwater aquariums, it is also important to maintain a balance
between the duration and quality of light, the amount of plants, CO2 and
nutrients. For a given amount of light, if there is insufficient number of
plants or insufficient CO2 to support the growth of those plants, so as to
consume all the nutrients in the tank, the result would be algae growth. While
there are fishes and invertebrates that could be introduced in the tank to
clean up this algae, the ideal solution would be to find the optimal balance
between the above-mentioned factors. Supplemental CO2 can be provided, whose
quantity has to be carefully regulated, as too much CO2 may harm the fishes, (Huet et al.,
2002).
2.2.4 Aquarium classifications
From
the outdoor ponds and glass jars of antiquity, modern aquaria have evolved into
a wide range of specialized systems. Individual aquaria can vary in size from a
small bowl large enough for only a single small fish, to the huge public
aquaria that can simulate entire marine ecosystems.
One
way to classify aquaria is by salinity. Freshwater aquaria are
the most popular due to their lower cost. More expensive and complex equipment is
required to set up and maintain marine aquaria.
Marine aquaria frequently feature a diverse range of invertebrates in
addition to species of fish. Brackish water
aquaria
combine elements of both marine and freshwater fish keeping. Fish kept in
brackish water aquaria generally come from habitats with varying salinity, such
as mangrove swamps and estuaries.
Subtypes exist within these types, such as the reef aquarium, a
typically smaller marine aquarium that houses coral. (Pillay et at., 2012).
Another
classification is by temperature
range. Many aquarists choose a tropical aquarium
because tropical fish tend to be more colorful.[64]
However, the coldwater aquarium is
also popular, which is mainly restricted to goldfish, but
can include fish from temperate areas worldwide and native fish keeping.
Aquaria
may be grouped by their species selection. The community tank is
the most common today, where several non-aggressive species live peacefully. In
these aquaria, the fish, invertebrates, and plants
probably do not originate from the same geographic region, but tolerate similar
water conditions. Aggressive tanks, in contrast, house a limited number of
species that can be aggressive toward other fish, or are able to withstand
aggression well. Most marine tanks and tanks housing cichlids have
to take the aggressiveness of the desired species into account when stocking.
Specimen tanks usually only house one fish species, along with plants, perhaps
ones found in the fishes' natural environment and decorations simulating a
natural ecosystem. This type is useful for fish that cannot coexist with other
fish, such as the electric eel, as
an extreme example. Some tanks of this sort are used simply to house adults for
breeding (Raskoff et al 2005).
Ecotype,
ecotope, or biotope aquaria
is another type based on species selection. In it, an aquarist attempts to
simulate a specific natural ecosystem, assembling fish, invertebrate species,
plants, decorations and water conditions all found in that ecosystem. These
biotope aquaria are the most sophisticated hobby aquaria; public aquaria use
this approach whenever possible. This approach best simulates the experience of
observing in the wild. It typically serves as the healthiest possible
artificial environment for the tank's occupants. (Tang et
atl., 2002).
CHAPTER THREE
3.2 STUDY AREA
Gboko is a
fast-growing town in the Benue State of
North-central Nigeria. The name
Gboko also refers to a Local Government in Benue State. The population for the
town is over 500,000, mostly Tiv people. It is the
traditional capital of the Tiv tribe and it has the official residence of the
Tor-Tiv, who is the paramount traditional ruler of the Tiv people that spread
across Benue, Taraba, Plateau, Nasarawa, and Enugu States. Gboko was also the
headquarters of the Tiv Native Authority. The Latitude of Gboko Benue is 7.325.
The Longitude of Gboko Benue is 9.005. The Latitude and Longitude of Gboko
Benue is 7.325 and 9.005 respectively. 7.325 Latitude and 9.005 Longitude can
be mapped to closest address of Gboko, Nigeria. Gboko Benue is located in
sub-locality, Gboko locality, District, Benue State of Nigeria Country.
SOURCES:
(Upa forex and ICT Gboko, 2015)
3.3 MATERIAL
i. Aquarium.
ii. Aquarium stand.
iii. Gravel or sand substrate.
iv. Filter
v. Painters tape or Masking or duct tape
vi. Plants and decorations.
vii. Plain glass.
viii. Silicon gun.
ix. 100% silicone sealant
3.4 GENERAL PROCEDURE
- Aquarium Height / Sheet Thickness
1 to 12 inches (2.5 to 30.5 cm) / 1/4 inch
12–18 inches (30.5–45.7 cm) / 3/8 inch
18–24 inches (45.7–61.0 cm) / 1/2 inch
24–30 inches (61.0–76.2 cm) / 3⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) are various sizes. I chose to use this measurement.
820cm
length by 410cm breadth (8.2m by 4.1m).
- 100% silicone sealant
- Many people say that "aquarium silicone sealant" is the only sealant you should consider. Although it's rather expensive, it is a good choice, partly because it lacks anti-mildew chemicals often in standard silicone sealants that can be toxic to fish over time. Regular household silicone like GE Door & Window clear silicone, Dow-Corning "DAP", and Napa All-Glass 100% clear silicone are also viable options. And if it comes in the size that fits in your caulk gun, even better.
- Masking or duct tape
- A caulk gun
- A few large containers or heavy objects for holding up the glass
3.4.0 Arrange
your Glass Pieces in an Open Area
Put the bottom piece of the glass down,
surrounded by the front, back, and sides. Remember that the sides should be
just shorter than the final measurement so they can snugly fit into the length
between the front and back (those will go up first).
- The difference in thickness should be twice the size of the glass. If you have 1/4" inch thick glass, your side pieces should be 1/2" in shorter (to account for the 1/4" on either side).
3.4.1 Prep
the Glass
First, use acetone or rubbing alcohol
on the sides of the glass. You want all the edges to be clean as can be. Then
cut strips of masking or duct tape that is about half the length of one side.
Stick half of each strip on the bottom of the bottom pane in every
direction. The other half of the strip should be lying freely on the table.
- Then when you put up the sides, you'll grab the other half of the strip and tape it on, giving support to each side of the tank.
- You may want three pieces of tape on each side – on the left, right, and center of each pane.
3.4.2 Apply
the Silicone
Start with the bottom piece, applying a thin
and continuous strip of silicone along the top, about 2mm away from the edge
(where the front pane of glass will rest on it). The strip of silicone should
be about 3mm in diameter.
- If you're not used to using a caulk gun, practice beforehand making even lines on something else, like newspaper or cardboard.
- When you go to cut the top of the tube, aim for a 3mm opening to control the size of your output.
- Be sure to work quickly; silicone sets in 2-3 minutes
3.4.3 Put
the Front Pane in Place
With the strip of silicone along the front
edge of the base, place the front piece of glass into place, pressing it down
firmly but gently. Hold it there briefly, adheres the rest of the tape up the
sides, and it should stay up. If you're worried about it falling over, you can
prop it up with a large container filled with water or some other heavy object.
- Don't wipe off the excess silicone just yet. You can take care of it after it's cured.
3.4.4 Begin
Assembling the Sides
With your caulk gun in hand, run another thin
line of silicone (again, 2mm from the edge), along the sides. Then repeat along
the inside edge of the front pane (remember: the side pieces are fitting not
only into the bottom, but sandwiched in between the front and back).
- Press the first side piece into place, firmly but gently. You should now have one corner of your aquarium put together it.
- Try to avoid realigning the piece – if you do, you could create bubbles in the silicone, leading to leaking later on.
- Repeat this for the other side, too.
Now that you're getting the hang of the caulk
gun, run your last 3mm-wide lines of silicone along the edge of the bottom pane
(2mm from the edge) and along the inside edges of the back panel.
- Press it firmly, yet gently, into place. Lift up the tape to support and prop as needed.
3.4.6 Allow
the Silicone to Dry and Set. Most types of silicone dry within 24-48
hours. It will harden even more as time goes on, so if you can resist, don't
fill it with water for a good week or so.
Before you go about assembling a masterpiece
in your aquarium, it's best to see if your craftsmanship holds up. Fill the
tank with a few inches of water. Let it sit a minute. If it doesn't leak,
continue on with assembly.
- If it does leak, empty the aquarium immediately. Let it dry, and then reseal the problem areas. You may also want to assume there are problems near the top too, and fix those as well.
3.4.8 Set
up a Filter System if Need be
If you're dealing with freshwater fish, you'll
need a filtering system. The most common choices are undergravel filters or
power filters and they're easily hung on the back of the tank.
- If you're using an undergravel water filter, keep in mind the size of your aquarium. A large aquarium requires a large filter. The air pump needs to work for the entirety of the tank; not just the area it's immediately place in.
- A power filter should circulate 5 gallons (18.9 L) of water per hour [gph] and per gallon of your tank's capacity. An 8 gallon (30.3 L) tank would need a power filter that can handle 40 gph.
- Follow the specific instructions on your filter's packaging. Regardless of your model, do not turn it on until the tank is filled with water and ready to go.
Most fish will be good with either gravel or
sand, and any pet store will offer you a plethora of choices when it comes to
texture and color. Whatever you use, 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) should be
plenty.
- Gravel does need to be washed before placing it into the aquarium. It has a tendency to acquire dust, which is something you do not want in your water.
3.5.0 Add in a few inches of water (if applicable)
and your decorations.
Everything will be easier to place (and it will stay in place) if you work with
a few inches of water in your aquarium. Hopefully this time there won't be any
leaks! Adjust as necessary, accounting for the weight of the water where need
be. Once you have the terrain all set up, fill the aquarium all of the way up.
Most people recommend a gap of about 1" or so from the top, though this is
ultimately up to you – some prefer not to see a water line at all (Woynárovich,
1999).
CHAPTER FOUR
4.1 TEST
RESULT
Different test were conducted to investigate, for leakage in the
tank. If any troubleshooting becomes necessary and tested to ensure that the
sealant worked effectively. The Aquarium life was also tested for few days to
check their survival adaptability.
After construction, live
rocks were introduced and mounted onto fiberglass threaded support sand was
added. Specimen ranging in length from 2.5 cm to 5 cm. Herbivores (water
Hawaiian convict surgeon fish, Acanthurus
triostegus) was NOT added to control diatom and algal growth due to
financial constrain. Within two months of being introduced, the fragments had
already attached to base rock and begun to exhibit growth. However from the description the tank was tested and confirmed to
hold fry/fingerling in a safe state.
 |
| AQUARIUM TANK |
The results constructed from the diagram above also show that the
aquarium tank is a functional supporting aspect of laboratory functions after
testing.
 |
| PIECES OF ANNEAL GLASS SHEET PREPARED FOR ASSEMBLING |
CHAPTER
FIVE
5.0 SUMMARY,
CONCLUSION AND RECOMMENDATION
5.1 SUMMARY
OF STUDY
The study was carried out around July, August, and September,
2016. The Aquarium materials were purchase in order of their availability
within the confined period.
The aim of the study was to construct
Aquarium Tank for Fry/Fingerlings dwelling for Biology Laboratory practical
usage and to determine the importance of this tank in Biology unit of Basic
Sciences Department of the laboratory.
Materials were collected in various
available areas and taken to the laboratory for assembling. The result shows
that the instrument was useful to keep fish and to ease the stress of getting
during at any point in time.
5.2 CONCLUSION
Based on the result of the study, the following conclusions were
made, that;
i. Constructed
Aquarium Tank for Fry/Fingerlings dwelling for Biology Laboratory practical
were useful to the laboratory.
ii. The benefit of
this tank in Biology unit of Basic Sciences Department of the laboratory will
enhance practical knowledge of both staff and students.
5.3 RECOMMENDATIONS
Since it was proven that Aquarium tank is
favorable and important to wide life, the following recommendations are made;
i.
It helps the lab. Technologist preserve his fish for the next
available practical
ii. It helps
circulate water around and makes it available since fish has to be kept alive
at all cost.
iii. It adds to the visual appeal
iii. Government
should find more tips and equipment on easy setting up of Aquarium tanks for
teaching benefit.
REFERENCES
reef-one.com.
Retrieved 2009-05-10.
Reef Hobbyist Magazine, pp. 42–46, Q2 2013
Chris Andrews; Adrian Exell; Neville Carrington (2000):
The Interpet Manual of
Hora,
S.L. and T.V.R. Pillay, (1992): Handbook
on fish culture in the Indo-Pacific
region. FAO
Fish. Tech. Pap.. (14):204 p.
Huet, M. and
J.A. Timmermans, (2003): Textbook of
fish culture: breeding and
cultivation
of fish. Farnham, Surrey, Fishing News Book Ltd., 436 p. 4th ed.
Blundell, Adam (2004): "Delicatessen
Part I: Creating a system for rare and delicate
animals".
Advanced Aquarist's Online Magazine. Retrieved 2007-04-04.
Pillay,
T.V.R., (1999): Planning of aquaculture
development - an introductory
guide.
Farnham, Surrey, Fishing News Books Ltd., for FAO, 72 p.
Tang
P. (1999): Classification and
identification of soils for general engineering
purposes. New
Delhi, Indian Standards Institution; (IS:1498-1999):24 p.
Tang, Y.A., (1998):
Physical problems in fish farm
construction. In Advances in
aquaculture
edited by T.V.R. Pillay and W.A. Dill. Farnham, Surrey, Fishing News Books
Ltd., for FAO, pp. 99-107
Szabványügyi
Hivatal, (2000): Müszaki irányelvek (MI:15218-53) Vizépités –
Foldgátak
tervezési irányelvei. (Hungarian Standard (MI:15218-53) Planning Standard of
earthfill dams for hydraulic engineering). Budapest, Szabványügyi Hivatal; 5 p.
Pillay,
T.V.R., (1997): The state of aquaculture.
In Advances in aquaculture,
edited by
T.V.R. Pillay and W.A. Dill. Farnham, Surrey, Fishing News Books Ltd., for FAO,
pp. 1-10
Raskoff J.
Moses O. (2005): "Collection and culture techniques for gelatinous
Retrieved 2007-04-03.
Woynárovich,
E. and L. Horváth, (1999): The artificial
propagation of warm-
water
finfishes: a manual for extension. FAO Fish. Tech. Pap., (201):183 p. Issued
also in French and Spanish
Wikihow (2012): Mezögazdaságj; vizhaszmositás. Vol. 2, Halászat, edited by
Gy Fóris. Budapest, VIZDOK és
Mezögazdasági Könykiadó Vállalat
Great post.
ReplyDeleteamara.org